Practice
Train the movement, not the ego
Sessions feel better with a honest warm-up, deliberate rests, and drills that repeat foot placements you usually rush.
Warm-up that matches the wall
Start on large holds with feet low. Swing shoulders, open hips, and climb three easy problems before you touch the steep cave.
Joint circles
Easy traverses
Quiet landings
Pacing between attempts
Hard moves deserve full recovery. Sit off the pad, shake out, and note what failed — foot too high, hips open, chalk worn off — before you hop up again.
This is reflection, not a prescription. Listen to fatigue and call it early when fingers feel glassy.
Technique threads
- Silent feet — Place toes once; scraping wastes tension.
- Hip square — Point knees where you want to go before pulling.
- Opposite hand — Reach with the hand that keeps balance, not the one that feels strong.
- Down-climb — Practice control when stepping off; it teaches weight shift for harder sends.